We've been watching this shift happen for a while now. The loud logos, the flashy bezels, the "look at me" energy that dominated wrists for years — it's fading. What's replacing it is something more interesting, and honestly, more timeless: quiet luxury.
If you've been paying attention to fashion lately, you know what we mean. Elegant cuts, quality materials, no screaming for attention. When it comes to watches, this philosophy hits differently, because horology has always had a quiet luxury side. It just took the rest of the world a while to catch up.
At Tufina, this is the space we've always occupied. Mechanical movements, artistry, and watches that reward the person who leans in for a closer look. So we thought we'd put together a guide to the styles driving this trend right now — and point you toward the specific models we think nail it.
Tufina Theorema Venezia GM-118-3 Gold.
The Skeleton Watch
Here's the thing about a skeleton watch that people don't always articulate: it's actually the opposite of showing off. Yes, you can see the movement. Yes, it looks incredible. But what it's really saying is that the watch doesn't need a dial to hide behind. The mechanics are good enough to be the centrepiece.
That's a quiet confidence most watches can't pull off. We've always loved skeleton watches for this reason. There's no decoration for decoration's sake — just gears, bridges, and springs doing exactly what they're supposed to do, and looking extraordinary in the process. Wear one with a clean outfit, and it adds depth without noise. That's the sweet spot.
OUR PICK: Theorema Venezia
Venezia is one of those watches we keep coming back to. This fully open dial sits inside a warm gold case, and the cream exotic-leather strap gives it a softness that stops it from feeling aggressive. It's dressed up, but not trying too hard.
Tufina Theorema St. Petersburg GM-121-4 Gold.
The Square Case Watch
Round watches are the default. Square watches are a decision. The square case has a long, distinguished history in fine watchmaking. There's a reason the most iconic dress watches in history have leaned angular. The geometry implies something: structure, intention, a point of view.
In the context of quiet luxury, the square case watch makes perfect sense. It's not loud. It's just different in a way that only registers to people who are actually paying attention. Which is exactly the audience you want.
OUR PICK: Theorema St. Petersburg
We think St. Petersburg is genuinely one of the most loved watches we’ve ever made. The tonneau case in gold has real presence on the wrist, and the skeleton dial inside means you're getting two of the best watchmaking traditions in one piece.
The brown crocodile-textured strap pulls the whole look together. It's warm, rich, and just a little bit unexpected. This is a watch that sits somewhere between sport and dress and pulls both off without any awkwardness. That's harder to achieve than it sounds.
The “Out-of-the-box” Watch
There's something quietly powerful about glancing at your wrist and knowing what time it is in two cities at once. Not because you need to impress anyone — but because you actually do. Two time zones, two sets of commitments, one watch that handles both without making a scene.
The dual-time, or two-time-zone watch, has always been a practical complication. But the way the best ones carry it is anything but workmanlike. A well-designed dual-time dial manages to pack in that second display and still look completely composed. No clutter, no confusion.
That's the version we set out to make.
OUR PICK: Theorema Paris
The Paris is a watch that takes a genuinely complex idea and makes it feel inevitable. The main dial and the subsidiary timezone display work together in a layout that's busy by necessity but never chaotic. The silver case and black leather strap keep the colourway disciplined, and the partial skeleton window adds enough visual interest to make it worth studying.
The blue accents on the hands are our favourite touch. Restrained enough to fit the overall mood, but warm enough to give the watch some life. If you travel for work, or just live with one eye on another time zone, Paris handles it the way a good watch should: quietly and completely.
Tufina Tourbillon Bern Tourbillon GM-906-3 Gold.
The Tourbillon
The tourbillon is, by any honest measure, one of the most demanding complications in watchmaking. It takes extraordinary skill to build, and even more to build well. Historically, it's sat behind the glass of only the most expensive pieces in the world.
We think that's a shame, because the tourbillon isn't just a status symbol. It's a genuine piece of mechanical history that deserves to be worn, not locked in a display case. What makes it perfect for the quiet luxury moment is this: most people walking past you will have no idea it's there. It doesn't announce itself. It just rotates hypnotically, visible only to whoever takes the time to look. That's the whole point of quiet luxury. Extraordinary craft. A piece of art.
OUR PICK: Theorema Bern Tourbillon
The Bern is one of the watches we're most proud of in this collection, and we think it shows. The white dial is clean and confident, with a power reserve indicator, date display, and moonphase complication arranged with real care. Nothing feels squeezed or like an afterthought.
And then at 6 o'clock, the tourbillon sits elegantly in its open aperture. On a black leather strap with a silver case, the whole package is truly elegant. From across the room, it reads as a beautiful dress watch. Up close, it's something else entirely. That gap between the two is exactly what quiet luxury is about.
So, Where Does That Leave You?
Quiet luxury isn't a trend in the way that trends usually work — here for a season, gone the next. It's a correction. A return to valuing what's actually there over what's being signalled. And in watchmaking, that correction feels especially right, because the craft has always been there. It was just waiting for the rest of the world to slow down enough to notice. We built these watches for people who notice.
Whether it's the open dial of the Venezia or the composed complexity of Paris, there's a version of this story for your wrist. We just think it's time you found it.
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